Roll With the Changes.

It’s been a helluva six months. We bought a house outside Hammondsport in December, there’s a two year plan for transitioning into full time residents. This move has opened up all new possibilities for enjoying the region. We don’t have to worry about finding hotels and restaurants at the last minute, we can just jump in the car and go. No need to board the dogs, they seem to love the cavernous feel of a house with very little furniture. We can stop hauling wine south, and start filling up a completely unfinished basement. I’m almost drooling at the possibilities. So we’re up more often, we’re visiting new places, some of them even non-wine related, and we’re excited about this time of change. Could I be forgiven for thinking that we’re taking a next big step at the same time the region is doing the same. It’s almost like we’re collectively holding our breath, waiting for the coming wave. The next few years are going to be ground shaking for both us and the region. Let’s ponder the signs of things to come…

Covid happened. Yeah, that little glitch. Most seemed to roll with it, though. Many even flourished, and are flourishing yet. Outdoor covered seating, revamped tasting rooms, new club levels. These are vague observations that don’t fit every winery (the last I checked there were 130-140 Finger Lakes wineries, we can’t and don’t know what’s going on everywhere), but from an outsider that has paid more than a bit of attention to the region, I think I’m right in saying that many wineries shifted to a shipping and virtual model to survive, while they shifted their on premise model to seated, longer, more in depth tastings, often with food available. These things started as legal necessities, but I sense that they’re here to stay, at least for many wineries. This seems to mesh nicely with the expanding reputation of the region on the world stage. The masks are coming off, but whatever we’re going back to, it won’t be the same. Good or bad? Time will tell, and I suspect everyone will have their own opinion.

There’s a new grape in town. Well, let’s say it’s the newest old grape. It’s Saperavi, of course, and it seems to be coming out of the shadows. We’ve known it, certainly, but by aliases; Black Russian Red (BRR) from McGregor, Cuvee Rouge from Dr. Frank. Now, it’s authorized for varietal labeling and out in the open. I think I lost count at around six producers, and everyone seems to be planting some. It’s even getting its own event next week at Dr. Franks (already successfully completed by the time this was published). We’ve loved the ones we’ve tasted, which is most, and agree that the grape seems well suited to the region. Perhaps that sixty dollar price tag on the BRR (now Saperavi Reserve) is what caught everyone’s attention? That kind of pricing was once rare in the region, it’s still not common, but prices are going up. People are catching on.

FLX Aficionados. Yeah, that happened. In like a day or two. My hat is off to Wayne Schutz for tapping into something that needed to happen. It’s that rarest of things, a Facebook group where all levels of wine drinkers seem to be interacting peacefully and respectfully. It’s a must read for anyone that wants to keep up with the wines and food of the region, and it’s a great place to get recommendations from people who like the same type of wines as you, whatever that may be. Belly up to the bar people, all the hip kids belong. There’s even a first annual gathering scheduled for Geneva in June. If you want all the details, better check it out on Facebook. Although, I would put out the notion that there should be “What’s In Your Glass Tonight?” t-shirts present. What do you say Wayne? Better get the copyright in on that.

Has anyone noticed the scores lately? When we started coming here ten years ago, I remember some winery (which one eludes me) that had just gotten the first 90 point score in the Finger Lakes, from a major publication. These days, 90+ point scores abound. I don’t want to interject a bunch of negativity here by discussing my opinion on scoring wines (it’s really negative), because I understand the importance of scores to a winery’s bottom line. A few good scores could make for a very good year, a few bad ones, well, you get the idea. It’s no coincidence that the prices have been tracking up with the scores, and obviously for many other reasons, I’m looking at you gasoline. It’s becoming more and more important to know your producers, in order to find those gems that remain out of sight of the media. I will say that a producer who consistently makes outstanding wines, year in and year out, even in the “bad” years, matters more to me than any damn score. You have to dig, people, and by all means, trust your own taste. There really aren’t any wrong answers to one’s own taste. Don’t let anyone bully you.

Here are a few other random observations:

• The bottle shortage, 2021 is going to come in all shapes and colors.
• San’s dumplings are all the rage on the west side of Seneca.
• Food and wine pairing dinners are back!
• Wine clubs are expanding and creating more special events for members. It’s really awesome.
• Yes, yes. We have a club problem.
• It’s been a bad few years for the food scene on the east side of Seneca. RIP Scott.
• We need more good coffee shops in the area. Or not, prove me wrong.
• Better not need a fence, a roof, drainage, or a plumber in a hurry.
• The Smith Center for the Arts. A Finger Lakes gem. We’ll be joining soon Kelby.
• Cayuga is on our radar. Oh well, more clubs.
• But Keuka is in our hearts. There really is something about Keuka.

• Wineries are changing hands on a regular basis now. Another sign of change, and the onward crawl of time.
• There seem to be high end tasting rooms and wine bars popping up everywhere. Hello Nova.
• We’re still getting used to driving times around and between lakes. It makes reservations tricky.
• Reservations are here to stay at most of the wineries we frequent. Overall, I’m a fan. (And let the howls begin.)

I suppose this is as good a place to stop as any. The new website is up, if you’re reading this. It should be less draconian in its comment requirements. I hope so anyway. Keep drinking the good stuff, which is anything that was made by someone who gave a crap. I’ll see you all out there on the trails.

Oh, and be kind.

Jerry.